The Sound of Mull – 18th-22nd July

Scottish weather. After five glorious days heading up from Largs to Ardrishaig, through the canal and on to Oban, the weather changed just as Alan returned with his wife Lynda for a few days sailing around the Sound of Mull.

We planned to head for Tobermory, Salen Jetty on Loch Sunart, Lochaline and return to Oban. It was pretty dreich when we left for the 25 miles to Tobermory which, with the tide and a bit of wind, I expected it to take just over four hours. We were passed by many boats heading south towards Oban to see the Round The World Clipper Fleet as it spent some time on the North Pier Pontoons. We passed one of them heading down the Sound of Lorn as we headed north. We also passed Kokachin – a junk rigged sailing boat.

 

The marina at Tobermory was rammed and after a couple of circuits, it was obvious that there were no spaces. We headed out to the moorings and once again there were none free. We contemplated what to do next. Salen Jetty was just eleven miles up Loch Sunart so Alan gave them a ring only to discover that due to the forecast of strong southerly winds, Jan at the marina was about to close for safety reasons. In a desperate last attempt, Alan gave the harbour master a ring and after asking our size and draft told us that there was one berth available quite far into the marina – the advantage of having a smaller boat! 

The weather improved a little and we headed out to MacCoghan’s for our tea!

 

 

With Salen Jetty being closed and the weather forecast not looking that great, we decided to stay in Tobermory for another night. Alan investigated a trip to Iona using public transport and found that he and Lynda could indeed get there by bus from Tobermory to Craignure then connecting with a bus to Fionnphort where they could use the ferry to cross to Iona. I visited Iona a couple of years ago and didn’t feel like going. However, on the way back from having our tea I noticed that the “Screen Machine” mobile cinema had pitched up in the Ledaig Carpark so I had a look to see what was on. The Screen Machine story is an interesting one, they have been bringing cinema to areas of the Highlands and Islands of Scotland since it started in 1998. They have been struggling for the last few years but have now secured funding for the next two and are hoping to find more to replace their current cinema which they lease. The screening was ‘It’ll Never Work’  the story of the UK’s first solar-powered fishing boat. The “Lorna Jane” was built in a shed in Tayvalich and the film explores the building and the difficulties along the way. It was very interesting.  

After the film, I went into the Tobermory Distillery shop and parted with £100 for a rather nice bottle of Tobermory 10 finished in Port Casks!

 

Loch Aline is a very pretty wee sea loch about 18 miles north of Oban on the east side of The Sound of Mull. We left Tobermory just after nine to make the most of the tide. It was dull but thankfully not raining. The entrance to Loch Aline is through the narrow Caolas na h-Airde where the tide runs quickly, but it’s short and soon the sheltered Lochaline Harbour Pontoons come into view. Just past the entrance to the loch is the Lochaline Silica Sand Mine, one of only two underground mines in Scotland, and is the only underground sand mine in Europe. The sand is used for specialist glass. Not looking much from the outside, it has an astonishing 320km of tunnels beneath the Morvern Peninsula. The facilities at the marina are lovely, with great showers and toilets and an excellent laundry where I spent some of the afternoon doing my washing!

With both the Round the World Clippers and West Highland Week coming to town in the next couple of weeks, Oban’s marinas and moorings were going too get pretty busy. I had already tried both Kerrera and Dunstaffnage but they were not taking any bookings down to the iminent influx of boats. 

We left Lochaline quite early this morning intending to head for Dunstaffnage to secure a berth for the three weeks. I telephoned when we were close but was disappointed. My options were limited with only three nights maximum at Oban Transit Pontoons it would mean heading back north on my own to Lochaline or Tobermory. I had previously contacted Kerrera, again without any luck, but gave them another go anyway and to my surprise, they were able to offer me a pontoon for a week at least – so a bit of breathing space.

The Clippers have left and the bay is much quieter now. Alan managed to get a few shots of them readying for a race down to Craobh Haven.

Alan and Lynda set off for home after a great few days around The Sound of Mull. The weather was mixed and but we managed to get to Tobermory and Lochaline. Sadly, due to strong winds from the south, we were unable to get to Salen Jetty – next time. Alan and Lynda had a great trip to Iona and we saw the spectacle of the Round The World Clipper Fleet in the marina and setting off on their final race. I’m hoping to hang around here on Kerrera for the next couple of weeks until Alan returns and we head north around Ardnamurchan.

 

 

 

I have moved across from Kerrera to the North Pier Pontoons where I can spend three nights before returning to the island for a couple of weeks.