Largs to Oban 10th – 17th July
Our trip through the canal last year was far from pleasant – in fact, it was horrendous. Delayed for no reason, understaffed, no communication from staff, who were unhelpful and unfriendly to the point of almost being hostile. It was so bad we forfeited our return passage (which we had paid for) and opted instead to head south around the Mull. This year we would have headed around Kintyre but for reasons of time and tides, we reluctantly booked passage.
Alan and I travelled to Largs together and spent the day preparing the boat for departure on Thursday 11th of July. We had decided to head for Otterferry at the top of Loch Fyne, just an hour from the Crinan Canal sea-lock at Ardrishaig.
The weather was fair and we managed to sail across Inchmarnock Water before turning north into Loch Fyne where the wind was now directly against us. We motored up the remainder of Loch Fyne and arrived at Otterferry to find that it was almost deserted with just three of the ten moorings taken.
It was a beautiful morning for our short trip across Loch Fyne to the sea-lock at Ardrishaig and we arrived there just after eight-thirty. The sea-lock is usually open unless a boat is coming down and we headed straight in. Surprisingly, we were the only boat that made for a stress-free journey through the first four locks without worrying about fending off other boats. There were plenty of staff who all knew what they were doing, friendly and efficient and with great communication at every stage, quite a difference from last year!
Cairnbaan is under five miles from the sea-lock at Ardrishaig and once through the four locks and the bridge at Oakfield, it’s a straight run with no further locks. It’s a lovely location for our first overnight stop at the pontoons below the swing bridge opposite the hotel. Unfortunately, the hotel suddenly ceased trading earlier in the year but we could see that building work was going on so hopefully it will open again soon. As sat in the cockpit enjoying the afternoon sunshine a magnificent old sailing boat passed. It was The Ilen, Ireland’s last surviving ocean-going wooden ship.
Saturday, and it was yet another glorious morning – we have been really lucky so far. You are allowed something like ninety-six hours to transit the canal and we decided to remain on the canal for another couple of nights. Not only best value but we also wanted to head for the Crinan Hotel on Sunday night to see the Euro 2024 Football Final.
Whilst the whole canal is quite beautiful I think the stretch between Cairbaan and Crinin is the most stunning and varied. We meandered slowly along to Crinan and found a space in the basin next to the old false lock. There was no electricity but we hoped that boats on the far side of the basin, where power pods were, would be leaving the following day. Crinan is always a lively wee place with lots of tourists and a constant stream of boats entering and leaving the canal, but when the last boat has gone through the locks and the cafe closes it all becomes very quiet and peaceful.
I had a few drams and Alan indulged in a couple of gins. Later we wandered down to the Crinian Lighthouse to watch the most magnificent sunset I have ever seen.
We didn’t do much on Sunday, I did a bit of tidying and then read my book. Some of the boats did leave and we crossed the basin to a spot outside the cafe where we hoped to pick up their wi-fi signal to watch the football. Unfortunately, it was very poor. Crinan seems to be in a mobile phone dead spot as there is no signal irrespective of your network so we wandered up to the hotel to see if they had a television. It was quiet in the bar and they did indeed have a TV and we sat watching the Wimbledon Men’s Final. When we returned to the boat I decided to try a wee experiment of hoisting my mobile phone up the mast and using a hotspot on my phone. Success! Just a mere six metres up the mast and we had a very strong signal.
Whilst not critical, it was quite important that we left Crinan as early as possible so that we could make the best use of the tide running north. The two young girls, Kirsty and Louise, in charge of the sea-lock were brilliant getting us through the lock and out on our way to Dorus Mor by 0845!
We didn’t manage any sailing on the passage north to Oban but with the tide behind us, we covered the 23 miles in just over four hours. There had been warnings from the Oban Harbour Authority that space on the Transit Pontoons would be limited as the Round The World Clipper Race was pitching up for a week or so. As it turned out, the clippers were on the long outside pontoon, too large to get inside, and we took one of the half dozen or so spaces available.
Alan has taken the train down to Glasgow where he is meeting Lynda, his wife, before heading down to Largs to pick up his car. They are both returning here later today and we will be setting off on the next part of the Summer Sail north to Tobermory and Salen Jetty.